OVERVIEW

Tokyo (literally, Eastern Capital) is, in 2003 more than ever, a city dazzling and dizzying contradiction. It is a city of neon lights and skyscrapers as well as being home to the filmic images of the serene Buddhist temple and cherry blossoms. Because of this dialectic, Tokyo has the power to leave its visitors bemused, confused and struggling to lay claim on its wonders. The beauty of Tokyo, however, is this ability to both bombard with bright semiotics while also being able to nourish the weary soul with halcyon strolls through fabled parks, capturing with Zen calm the majestic beauty of the place and its history.

Taking the easy-to-navigate JR Yamanote loop railway line around the city will encompass much of what Tokyo has to offer. Be it the high-class shopping district of Ginza (best visited on a Sunday when the streets are free of automobiles), the urban sprawl of the commercial and entertainment hub of Shinjuku or the peace and solitude of Ueno and Asakusa, in 21st century Tokyo there is something for every intrepid traveler to explore.

THINGS TO DO

Tokyo International Forum Tel: 81-3-5221-9000. 5-1 Marunouchi 3-chome, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 100-0005, Japan.
Designed by architect Rafael Vinoly and completed as recently as 1996, this exhibition hall and conference center is well worth a visit. The breathtaking Glass Hall recalls the graceful splendor of the Sydney Opera House and the Forum’s early 2003 highlights include both the Japanese Philharmonic Orchestra and the Leningrad State Ballet.

Sumida River Boat Ride (“suijo basu”) Tel: 81-3-3841-9178.
Perhaps the most relaxing way to spend an afternoon in Tokyo, the Asakusa – Hinode Pier Cruise takes the tourist under 12 different Sumida River bridges, while on terra firma can be witnessed a great variety of Tokyo architecture, both old and new. Keep an eye out for the Asahi Beer building, built to evoke an actual glass of suds.

Tokyo National Museum Tel: 81-3-3822-1111. 13-9 Ueno Park, Taito-ku, Tokyo, 110-8712, Japan.
Housing the world’s largest collection of Japanese art, the National Museum houses and preserves 87,000 items, from painting and sculpture to metalwork and calligraphy.

Tokyo Central Wholesale Market (known locally as the Tsukiji Fish Market)
This Tokyo favorite (the largest of its kind in the world) requires an early wake-up call but is worth every second of lost sleep. The market springs into life at 3.00am as 450 different varieties of fish (2,888 tons a day) are prepared for the daily auction beginning at 5.30 a.m. Casting your eyes in disbelief on the human-sized frozen tuna, which can sell for as much as $10,000, should be enough to rouse you from your slumber. Taxi recommended. Closed Sunday.

RESTAURANTS

Inakaya (Tel: 3405-9566)
There is much fun to be had at this staple of Roppongi nightlife. A traditional robatayaki (grilled seafood and vegetables) bar-restaurant, serving its excellent fare with ceremonial zest - which goes some way in explaining the high-end prices.

Donjaga (Tel: 3357-8090)
Great sashimi and fish can be treasured in a lively, bustling atmosphere. Based in the brash and buzzing Shinjuku district, there will certainly be some fine bars nearby to compliment the stunning sake available here. Open late. No English spoken.

L’Osier (Tel: 3572-2120)
Trendy Ginza offers up this highly recommended French restaurant with charming service and even better food. Save some room as the desserts are to die for.

Hayashi (Tel: 3582-4078)
Take a trip back in time to Meiji-era Japan at this famed Akasaka eatery where charcoal-grilled fish and chicken vie for attention on the customer’s palate with the superbly prepared vegetables and sashimi. An exquisite dining experience. Reservations recommended.